Factory QC Manual -- 高端服装品牌QC验货标准(英文版)

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Apparel Factory Quality Manual

Introduction

I) Introduction .......................................................................................................................... 7 Liaison Office Quality Assurance Contacts .......................................................................................... 7 Basic Quality Assurance Expectations .................................................................................................. 8

II) Fabric Inspection Program ................................................................................................10 Four Point System ................................................................................................................................. 11 Defect Classification .............................................................................................................................. 11 Fabric Inspection ................................................................................................................................... 12 Knit Bundle Inspections ........................................................................................................................ 13 Color Program Basics ........................................................................................................................... 14 Run Cards and Shade Bands ................................................................................................................ 15 Trim and Raw Material Inspections .................................................................................................... 15

III) Fabric Testing Basics .......................................................................................................18 Finished Garment Testing Summary .................................................................................................. 18 Testing Evaluation and Reporting ....................................................................................................... 19

IV) Cutting and Spreading Inspections .................................................................................20 Monitoring Spreading and Cutting ..................................................................................................... 20 Important Points For Knits .................................................................................................................. 21 Spreading and Cutting QC Inspector Procedures ............................................................................. 21 Cutting Room Inspector Procedures ................................................................................................... 22 Manual Cutting Inspections ................................................................................................................. 22 CNC / Computer Cutting...................................................................................................................... 23 Bierrebi (B-R-B) .................................................................................................................................... 23

V) In-process Inspections ......................................................................................................24 Inspector Procedures ............................................................................................................................ 24 Summary of the Follow-up Bundle Process ........................................................................................ 25

VI) Additional Monitoring .......................................................................................................26 Seam Seal / Bonding .............................................................................................................................. 26 Measurement Procedures ..................................................................................................................... 27 Pre-Final Inspections ............................................................................................................................ 27

This is a confidential and proprietary information of Columbia Sportswear Company. You agree that you will not disclose this information to any third party or use it for any purpose other than on behalf of Columbia Sportswear. You have no right to use Columbia?s name or any of its trademarks, trade names, copyrights, patents, designs or other intellectual property except as set forth in writing by Columbia. April 2009

Introduction

Quality Reports and Daily Meeting ..................................................................................................... 27 Quality Standards ................................................................................................................................. 27 Display and Organizational Boards ..................................................................................................... 27 Recognition and Incentive Programs .................................................................................................. 28 Defect Codes ........................................................................................................................................... 28 Pilot Lots ................................................................................................................................................ 28 Vestibule Training ................................................................................................................................. 28

VII) Final Inspection ...............................................................................................................29

VIII) The Final Audit Process .................................................................................................30 Random Sampling ................................................................................................................................. 30 Sampling Plans ...................................................................................................................................... 30 When to Inspect ..................................................................................................................................... 30 Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection. ..................................................................................... 32 Using the “How To Measure” Manual ................................................................................................ 32 Re-Audits ................................................................................................................................................ 33

VIII) Qualified Factory Inspector Program .............................................................................34

APPENDIXES ...........................................................................................................................35

I) Broken Needle and Auxiliary Sewing Tool Policy ...........................................................36

II) Down Product Compliance Overview ................................................................................39 CCS 151 Test Lab Requirements ......................................................................................................... 40 CCS 152 Down Suppliers ...................................................................................................................... 40 CCS 153 Factory Monitoring and Testing .......................................................................................... 40 CCS 154 Finished Goods Factory In-Process and Final Inspection Monitoring ............................. 41 CCS 155 Finished Goods Testing ......................................................................................................... 42 CCS 156 Fully Vertical Down Supplier Testing ................................................................................. 43 CCS 157 CSC QC Monitoring ............................................................................................................. 43

Introduction

(III) Finished Garment Testing ...............................................................................................54 Requirement .......................................................................................................................................... 54 Procedure ............................................................................................................................................... 54 Testing Evaluation and Reporting ....................................................................................................... 56 Torque / Skew ........................................................................................................................................ 57

(IV) CCS 1800 Seam Tape Commercialization .......................................................................60 CCS 1801 Seam Seal Trial Condition .................................................................................................. 60 CCS 1802 Seam Seal Machine Calibration Procedures ..................................................................... 62 CCS 1803 Testing Requirements ......................................................................................................... 62 CCS 1804 In-Process Seam Seal Testing Procedures ......................................................................... 63 CCS 1805 Finished Product Garment Washing Procedures ............................................................. 64 CCS 1806 Seam Seal Troubleshooting ................................................................................................ 65 CCS 1807 Seam Seal Tape Storage Examples .................................................................................... 67 CCS 1808 Seam Seal Exterior Appearance Examples ....................................................................... 68 CCS 1809 Seam Seal Interior Appearance Examples ........................................................................ 69 CCS 1810 Seam Seal Test Report Form .............................................................................................. 70 CCS 1811 Seam Seal Machine Calibration Report Form.................................................................. 71

(V) Heat Transfer/Screen Print Quality Requirements ..........................................................72 CCS 1850 Heat Transfer/Screenprint Commercialization ................................................................ 72 CCS 1851 Application Equipment Requirements .............................................................................. 73 CCS 1852 Heat Transfer/Screenprint Development Testing ............................................................ 74 CCS 1854 Heat Transfer Machine Calibration Procedures .............................................................. 74 CCS 1855 Heat Transfer Pre-Production Testing Requirements ..................................................... 75 CCS 1856 In-Process Heat Transfer/Screenprint Audit Procedures ............................................... 76 CCS 1857 Finished Product Garment Washing Procedures ............................................................. 77 CCS 1858 Heat Transfer/Screen Print Troubleshooting ................................................................... 77 CCS 1860 Heat Transfer Exterior Appearance Examples ................................................................ 78 CCS 1861 Heat Transfer/Screenprint Wash Test Report Form ....................................................... 79 CCS 1862 Heat Transfer Machine Calibration Report Form ........................................................... 80

Introduction

(VI) Puckering Standards........................................................................................................81 Double Needle Puckering Standards ................................................................................................... 81 Single Needle Puckering Standards ..................................................................................................... 82

(VII) A & E Technical Bulletin .................................................................................................83 Sewing Machine Maintenance .............................................................................................................. 83 Sewing Maintenance Checklists ....................................................................................................................... 83 Preventative Maintenance ................................................................................................................................. 83 Stitch Forming System ...................................................................................................................................... 84 Thread Handling System .................................................................................................................................. 84 Other Thread Handling Systems ...................................................................................................................... 86 Stitch & Seam Quality ....................................................................................................................................... 86

(VIII) Factory Apparel Sizing Audits .......................................................................................88

(IX) Packaging Compliance Audits ........................................................................................91 Inspection Procedures ........................................................................................................................... 92 Lot Integrity and Selection ............................................................................................................................... 92 Packaging Compliance Audits .......................................................................................................................... 92 Auditing the Cartons ......................................................................................................................................... 92 Auditing the Contents........................................................................................................................................ 92 Packaging Defects .............................................................................................................................................. 93 Audit Results ...................................................................................................................................................... 93 Audit Failures .................................................................................................................................................... 93

(X) QFI Introduction ................................................................................................................94

(XI) Form Examples.................................................................................................................96 Garment Wash Test Reporting Form Example ................................................................................. 96 Fabric Inspection Sample Form ........................................................................................................... 97 Fabric Inspection Worksheet ............................................................................................................... 97 Fabric Inspection Tally Sheet 1 Form Example ................................................................................. 98 Fabric Inspection Tally Sheet 2 Form Example ................................................................................. 99 Fabric Inspection Summary Report Form........................................................................................ 100 Cutting Quality Control Inspection Form Example ........................................................................ 101 Sample Sizing Worksheet Form Example ......................................................................................... 102 Re-Audit Requirements and Form .................................................................................................... 102 Inline Inspection Form Example ........................................................................................................ 104

Introduction

I) Introduction The Columbia Sportswear Apparel Factory Quality Control Manual summarizes our basic Quality Control program and expectations. It is primarily intended to help most factories to develop or improve their own, effective and efficient Quality Control Program. This is meant to be a tool to help promote continuous improvement and serve as an industry standard that would be accepted and be effective for all customers. As we begin to develop our supply base, we will continue to evolve this new manual to address stronger Quality Assurance principles and systems.

At Columbia, we believe in moving to a model of partnership and building quality into our

garments. Learning from mistakes, training, getting to the root cause and preventing problems from reoccurring is a fundamental principle that must be learned and practiced throughout the organization to show consistent, sustainable improvement. This especially applies at the factory level and is at the core of how we?ve built our Factory Quality Systems Manual. Accurate data gathering and effective monitoring to prevent passing problems onto the next area or internal customer are key elements of our program.

If you have questions or need further assistance, please contact your local QC Area Office Manager.

Liaison Office Quality Assurance Contacts

Please address all Quality related matters to the appropriate Area Office: Region Korea Taiwan Americas Vietnam India Sri Lanka Hong Kong Shanghai Beijing Name Kevin Jung Jessie Sun Mitch Hammitt Hai Ho Michael Walmsley W.C. Kandamby Kenneth Ng Jimmy Fang Denny Tai Phone 011 82 2540 0277 011 886 2 2698 4888 503 985 4804 84 8 3863 4649 Ext.846 011 91 44 2320098 94 11 4708616 011 852 2793 8978 011 8621 61200 552 852 2318 0012 Email Address kjung@columbia.com jsun@columbia.com mhammitt@columbia.com haih@columbia.com mwalmsley@columbia.com wajirak@columbia.com kng@columbia.com jimmyf@columbia.com dtai@columbia.com

Introduction

Basic Quality Assurance Expectations

A factory must have a strong foundational Quality System, supported by Senior

Management and engrained in everyday practice and procedure. An effective and consistent Quality program would combine Quality Control inspection and monitoring throughout manufacturing, which we cover in this manual, with the Quality Assurance aspects of the following, which we will expand upon at a later date:

Strong Management Controls:

o Effective leadership and proper planning

? Support and structure for Quality ? Formalized training

? System to manage procedures

o Development/design controls and validation

? System to manage manufacturing standards

? Process for testing raw materials and production; repeatability o Corrective and Preventive Action process

Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP):

o Equipment and facilities

? Housekeeping, organization, storage and production o Preventive maintenance

o Materials control and organization o Production and process controls o Laboratory controls

o Finished product approval/release and handling

Responsibility For Quality

Obviously, all parties, internal or external throughout the supply chain must contribute to and take responsibility for their role in overall product quality. Fabric mills must provide first quality fabric, on time, to the garment factories and must respond to problems found promptly and appropriately. It is the responsibility of the factory and the fabric mill to quickly resolve any issues with a fabric shipment. The CSC MR team may oversee this process but should not be expected to lead the resolution.

The fact that CSC recommends a fabric mill is unrelated and irrelevant. Ultimately, it is the factory’s responsibility to meet first quality and delivery expectations. Rarely ever should a problem progress through a factory without being detected internally. Swift corrective action and communication with CSC is imperative prior to cutting fabric. This requires a strong fabric inspection program.

CSC strongly encourages garment factories to establish in-house labs and complete basic testing and inspect piece goods immediately upon receipt. Exceptions or extensions to CSC fabric standards and tolerances, including overrides of failed tests, can only be approved by the corporate MR and QA teams. The LO MR and QA Manager are responsible for gathering all necessary data and communicating promptly with corporate MR and QA for a quick, joint resolution.

Introduction

All of our factories are required to use the Four Point System to formally inspect incoming fabric prior to spreading/cutting. Factories will be required to keep scorecards to trend the performance of fabric mills and work closely with the mills for improvement. We are planning an automated process for many factories in the near future, which will be visible to CSC.

To help reduce the probability of problems arriving at the factories, we are requesting the following at minimum be followed at the fabric mills:

o Strong Quality Systems and a Continuous Improvement program in place to ensure

quality and delivery excellence. We will soon begin a Mill Evaluation program to rate their programs.

o The mill has become or is working to become a CSC Certified Testing Lab and has first

bulk approved by a Certified Lab.

o Quality monitoring and testing of each production run in-house; providing results to

factories

o Completes griege and finished goods inspections using the Four Point System; CSC

allows a maximum of 20 pt/100 sq yd for woven goods, 28 pts/100 sq yd for knits and a maximum of 20 points per square yard average for all rolls within a lot. You should state these or your tighter expectations to the mill.

Fabric Inspection Program

II) Fabric Inspection Program Top management should promote appropriate trending of your fabric mill performance levels and work closely with them in improvement and prevention efforts.

Unless you have long histories with excellent performance and have certified your fabric mill partners, you are most likely in need of a strong fabric inspection program. This is a very

important and effective aspect of an apparel quality control program. Randomly inspecting piece goods immediately upon receipt allows for quicker response to problem fabric.

Columbia recommends a minimum 10% inspection of all piece goods prior to spreading based upon the Four Point System. Fabric Inspectors should be well trained and fully understand fabric defects and characteristics. Training of all factory inspectors should promote defect recognition consistency will suffer. Problematic

The purpose of this section is to:

o Provide a factory guideline for grading incoming fabric quality to be used by Columbia

Sportswear.

o Assist the factory in improving their process to detect defects and prevent them from

reaching finished garments.

o Provide a training frame work for inspectors to follow.

o Help with the communication between the factory and the vendor to resolve quality

problems.

o Help develop a Vendor Quality Report and promote trending performance.

Area for Inspection:

The inspection area should be open, clean and have good lighting over inspection frames and the work area. Fabric rolls should not be staged standing on end. The inspection should take

place on a clean, properly lit, inspection machine that is appropriate for your fabric type and size.

Equipment:

Inspection frame: The frame should be equipped with a variable speed drive, a yard (or meter) counter, under carriage light to see through the fabric and over head light for inspection of the face of the fabric. Recommend the factory to have positive feed machine to avoid stretching the fabric. Many knits will require an appropriate inspection machine.

Inspection speed: The frame should be capable of running up to 30 yards of fabric per minute (27 meters per minute) and should have both forward and reverse controls.

Viewing Distance: The inspection should be done from a distance of 2 to 4 feet (60 to 120 centimeters) in order to have a view of the entire width of fabric.

Lighting:

Fabric Inspection Program

The surface illumination level should be a minimum of 1075 lux (100 foot candles).

Tools:

The tools listed below are needed for the fabric inspection:

o Measuring tape and defect stickers or swift-tacks o Scissors and protective folders or bags o Inspection form and defect standards o Fabric standards and access to light box

Four Point System

The Four-Point System is the system Columbia recommends for suppliers implementing a new piece goods inspection procedure or improving another method.

The Four Point System defines defects by their severity and assigns penalty points

appropriately. This scoring system is appropriate for greige or finished, knit or woven fabrics.

o Amount to Inspect

? Inspect at least 10% of the total rolls and yardage in the shipment. To meet the

requirement of both you may need to inspect more than 10% of the rolls or yardage.

o Selection of Rolls

? Randomly select at least one roll of each color. If more than one roll per color

should be inspected, then select the number of additional rolls in proportion to the total rolls per color received.

? All colors and dye lots should be included in this 10%, and more than 10% may

be necessary.

? For problem fabric or trim vendors, the 10% should be increased and the

inspection should be done by individual dye lots instead of on all colors.

Defect Classification

The Four-Point System classifies fabric defects as shown:

o Penalty Points:

All major defects regardless of direction, with the exception of holes should be scored as: Size of Defect Conversion Penalty 3 inches or less 0 to 7.5 cm. 1 point Over 3, but not over 6 inches 7.6 to 15 cm. 2 points Over 6, but not over 9 inches 15.1 to 22.5 cm. 3 points Over 9 inches 22.6 cm. and Over 4 points

o Allowable Points

Columbia Sportswear requires no more than 20 pt/100 sq yd for woven goods, 28

pts/100 sq yd for knits.

The lot per average roll should not be more than 20 points per square yard.

Defect Classifications

Fabric Inspection Program

For a complete list of woven and knit fabric defects, as well as the finished garment defect codes, please refer to the Columbia Sportswear Defect Classifications Manual.

Fabric Inspection

Major Defects

Any defect severe enough that it would result in customer dissatisfaction, or generally classify the garment as a second, or of less quality.

Minor Defects

An imperfection that may or may not cause a second, depending upon its location in the finished garment.

Factories should maintain ongoing defect recognition training to ensure consistency among all internal and external Inspectors. This includes having an updated fabric library.

Other Considerations

o Shade must match the approved standard from side to side and end to end o throughout the roll

o Do not score minor defects, although you may want to mark them o Do not count more than a total of four points per one linear yard

o Continuous running defects and others within one linear yard is only 4 points o All holes are considered 4 points

Determining Pass/Fail

Columbia Sportswear requires no more than 20 pt/100 sq yd for woven goods, 28 pts/100 sq yd for knits. The average per 100 square yards method is recommended to determine if a roll and lot passes or fails.

To convert to points per sq yd, use:

Total Pts in inspected rolls x 36 x 100 = Avg. Points per 100 Square Yards Width of Roll in inches x total yards inspected

Example

Total Rolls Received: 40 Total Yards Received: 4000 Total Yards Inspected at 10%: 400 Total Penalty Points Found: 98

Columbia Sportswear Standard: 1) 28 per 100 Sq Yards for any one roll 2) Average of rolls inspected within a lot is less than 20 pts

Example: 98 x 100 x 36 = 352,800 = 16.96 points per 100 sq yards 52” x 400 20,800

Inspection passed. Any single rolls with 28 or more pts would fail that roll. Failed rolls warrant further inspection of that color and possibly the shipment.

In most cases, failed or problem lots should be 100% inspected to help facilitate the decision making process. The factory should immediately contact the fabric mill with their findings and alert the Columbia LO of any pending issues.

Fabric Inspection Program

Primary Steps

Columbia Sportswear highly recommends all factories begin to test and inspect each fabric shipment immediately upon receipt. This process is an important step to prevent delays caused by poor fabric quality or an incorrect fabric delivery. A formal Fabric inspection process is

required and substituting inspection while spreading is not appropriate and strongly discouraged.

o Sort fabrics to allow for easy access and limited movement during and after the

inspection process. Store fabric laying down not standing up on end. Do not store on uncovered wood pallets.

o Select a minimum of 10% of each color and lot based upon the total rolls and yardage. o Check that the PO was filled correctly for color, quantity, style and hand.

o Cut a 5 x 5 inch square from the corner of each roll shipped to build a run card. Compare

these to the standards under a light box using North Sky Daylight as the primary source and CWF as the secondary source as outlined by the Columbia color guidelines. o On each roll inspected cut a swatch from the front end of the roll after mounting. It

should be wide enough to cover all pattern repeats and be the full width of the roll. Compare this swatch from side to side and against the Approved Production Standard (APS) Use it to spot check throughout the roll, side to side and end to end, for shade consistency and slight variation.

o Inspection frames should also use North Sky Daylight bulbs.

o All rolls should be inspected for the correct width, length, bowing, skew/bias and tested

per the Columbia Sportswear fabric testing requirements. Tolerances should be clearly stated for fabric width and weight by style and each roll should be verified. o Mark defects at the selvedge to help Cutting and QC monitor these.

o Trend fabric mill performance closely and communicate often to promote improvement.

Cost of the fabric will typically dictate if the fabric defects are cut out at inspection or later in spreading. Should any quality issues exist that may delay production or is potentially significant, please notify your local Columbia office Quality Manager and Merchandiser immediately. Please work directly with the mill to help determine appropriate action and resolution.

Other Factories should specify the following on their PO:

o Number of allowed splices within a roll and within the lot o Tolerance or minimum length and width of acceptable rolls o Points allowed for the Four Point System Inspection

o Should require the mill inspection and testing results along with the standard

o Rolls should be required to be covered in polyethylene, appropriately labeled and

received in good condition.

Knit Bundle Inspections

The Four Point System to determine acceptability still applies.

o If delicate knits are involved, a normal inspection frame may stretch the fabric

? A tubular knit inspection machine allows both sides to be inspected ? Should be ran slow enough to see both sides ? Mirrors must be clean to notice defects

Fabric Inspection Program

o Knit bundles can be inspected on an appropriate table o Ensure inspection coverage of both sides for tubular knits

Color and Shade Control

A formal Color Control program is recommended and should include appropriate communication between the Fabric Mill, Trims Supplier, Factory and Retailer. The Piece Goods Inspection, Testing, Cutting Department, Production and QC Teams should work closely to ensure color and shade accuracy and consistency is met and maintained.

Color and Shade Control Basics

o Each fabric roll or bundle is checked for proper shade match

o 6-8” wide swatch cut from edge to edge or wide enough to cover a repeat o Compared to standard under light box - usually 2 equal layers/plies

o Use head in swatch to compare side-side and end to end of inspected rolls

o Shade run cards kept to log all received rolls and used to improve mill performance o Keep approved, dated standard swatch, clean, covered and out of light

? Replace standard every 6-12 months if used frequently or worn ? Must represent actual fabric construction

o Maintain a strong program to test annually for color perception using the Farnsworth –

Munsell 100 Hue Color Test

? Include on-going supply chain color calibration with your program

? Check Color personnel, Inspectors, managers with override ability, merchandisers,

sales and others as appropriate

o Certain fabrics such as synthetics may be more difficult to shade; identify a process

Color Program Basics

Equipment

o Should have Macbeth Spectral Light II or III light box

o Area should not be influenced by surrounding room lighting

o Failed bulbs should be replaced in pairs; D65 is primary source, CWF secondary o Calibration should meet recommended intervals and be recorded o Top of unit fan must be kept clean and unobstructed o Light plexi-glass cover must be lint and dust free inside

o Inside box must be free of paper, etc… repaint w/ Munsel N7 if needed

Viewing

o View sample and standard side by side at 45 degree angle; use diagonal board o Observer?s line of sight should be at 90 degrees

o Need a customer ?communication guide? to explain issues and corrections

? E.g., Metamerisim; slightly bright and red in D65, reformulate to correct

Proper Lighting

o There should be 100 foot candles on inspection surfaces or, approximately 1075 lux o Inspection area lighting should be D65 the CS primary light source

? Post guidelines for various customers to avoid confusion

o For critical shading:

? Minimize other light sources; sodium vapor or halogen lights ? Dove grey or Munsell N7 grey laminated table tops are ideal

Fabric Inspection Program

o Light height should be appropriate for area, usually 4-10 foot range

Approved Production Standard – APS

The factory should receive an approved standard along with the test reports for each dye lot of first bulk production. They should be used to confirm color, shade, hand and aesthetics of the fabrics received. It may be necessary to also compare to previously established shade bands. Subsequent shipments of the same lot should be compared to the initial standard. Standards must be kept clean, covered and out of the light. They should be labeled with the fabric mill and factory names, PDM fabric number, color code, name and date. Standards should be replaced if dirty and worn.

Run Cards and Shade Bands

A Run Card should be kept for internal factory purposes and used to share performance results with fabric mills. Approved Run Cards and any subsequent Shade Bands need to be safely stored for 2 seasons for easy reference. The factory color/shade approval person (Colorist) should ensure consistency from roll to roll and dye lot to dye lot. Roll numbers should be identified. Swatches from each roll should be large enough for proper shading against the approved standards under a light box using D65 as the primary source and CMF as the secondary.

Shade Bands should be established and furnished to the local LO Colorist for approval if questionable or problematic shade variation exists. The factory should ensure that the

questionable swatch is truly representative of the majority of the roll. Variances in shade should be addressed by classifying each roll into groups and maintaining their integrity throughout production.

Differences in shade at the garment stage should not be conspicuous enough to prevent them from being displayed side by side. The factory must determine how problem fabric can best be handled to meet their production needs without causing quality problems in the finished product.

Trim and Raw Material Inspections

Inspections should be completed on all incoming trim items including, all labels, snaps, buttons, zippers, Velcro, phemos, tapes, elastics, eyelets, patches, packing materials etc..

o A 1.5 AQL Normal or Tightened sampling should be used to accept individual quantities

? If a consignment is less than 500 pieces, inspect at least 10% randomly or a min

of 20 pieces, whichever is higher

Trim and Raw Material Inspections

o For rolls of trim, follow the principles of the Four Point System, inspecting a min. of 10%

Inspections should include:

o Shade, color, size, design, layout, wording where appropriate, PDM number, graphics o Compared to the approved sew-by sample o General quality and consistency

o Quantity received against packing list and ordered quantity

o Product Safety implications – no metal is to be used in the packaging of materials and

must be checked through a metal detector

o All non confirming goods to be segregated, clearly marked and stored separately o Failed lots are to be inspected 100% and reaudited

o Trim cards should be approved by Columbia Sportswear QA

Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection – Trims/Findings/Raw Materials

(For Items of Quantity)

MIL STD 105E / ANSI / ASQC Table 1-A

Recommended Inspection Level is .65.

Trim and Raw Material Inspections

Acceptable Quality Levels (normal inspection) PO or Lot Size 2 - 8 9 - 15 16 - 25 26 - 50 51 - 90 91 - 150 151 - 280 281 - 500 501 - 1,200 1201 - 3,200 3201 - 10,000 10,001 – 35,000 35,001 – 150,000 150,001 -500,000 500,001 and over Sample Size 2 3 5 8 13 20 32 50 80 125 200 315 500 800 800 Ac 0 0 0 0 1 1 2 3 5 7 10 10 .65 Re 1.0 Ac Re 0 0 0 1 1 2 3 5 7 10 14 14 1 1 1 2 2 3 4 6 8 11 15 15 1.5 Ac Re 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 3 5 7 10 14 21 21 0 0 1 1 1 1 2 3 4 6 8 11 15 22 22 1 1 1 1 2 2 3 4 6 8 11 11 This plan should also be shared with and used by your Trim/Accessories suppliers, at the same .65 level to reduce the differences in inspection results. A Scorecard should be used to trend performance of all suppliers.

Fabric Testing Basics

III) Fabric Testing Basics Most factories should have a basic Laboratory in-house to test fabric and finished garments. The ability of a factory to fulfill this requirement will weigh heavily in the new CSC Factory Quality Systems Evaluation and future Vender Certification program.

Test results should be captured and combined with Fabric Inspection results to determine the status of the lot. These results should be detailed and used for fabric mill improvement efforts.

Production garments should also be tested for each production lot, noting Appearance Retention results, and the line performance trended for improvement purposes.

Basic wash testing of fabric should be completed immediately upon fabric receipt. Basic wash test should include:

o Shrinkage should be tested on a minimum of 1 roll of every 10 inspected at inspection.

? 1 of every 20 rolls inspected on subsequent shipments of the same style ? A minimum of 3 wash-dry cycles should be done with calculations after each ? Shrinkage should be monitored for necessary pattern adjustments

o Appearance retention should be evaluated after final wash, comparing to standard o Bleeding (with multi-fiber strips), wet and dry crocking should also be checked o Weight and count should be checked from each roll from each style and color

o A daily finished garment production testing process should be in place; track by line & lot

Finished Garment Testing Summary

For complete program, please see appendix.

Factory testing of the finished garment provides an early opportunity to react to issues related to washing and construction once all components have been combined. This is also an excellent way to monitor a line?s machine settings and sewing techniques. The severity of stitch tension, skewing, puckering, roping, blooming of rib necks and poor construction may be magnified after wash and these results should result in immediate line adjustments.

Requirement

Columbia Sportswear (MHW, Pacific Trail, Titanium, Sorel, etc.) requires a garment from first production and each color be tested for basic after wash performance. We also require that any primary factory have it?s own lab for basic wash testing. Tests to perform will depend upon product but would primarily include:

o Dimensional Stability ( Shrinkage) o Appearance Retention o Bleeding (Color fastness) o Skewness (Torque) o Wet and Dry Crocking

Fabric Testing Basics

Procedure Summary

o Follow care instructions and AATCC 135 ( CSSP 206 )

o Complete 3 wash and dry cycles and allowed to condition for a minimum of 4 hours o Check dimensional stability and skewness/ torque ( CSSP 207 ) o Examine color blocked styles for staining after both the 1st and 3rd wash cycles o Use the AATCC Grey scales and multi-fiber strips to grade color change and staining o A light box with a daylight D65 illuminant should be used when rating the color

o Re-inspect the garment for the physical appearance retention. A list of key points to

review are given in table form under Evaluation and Reporting. Has the appearance deteriorated due to any reason such as:

? Seam puckering

? Differential shrinkage between materials ? Pilling

Testing Evaluation and Reporting

A table listing standards and tolerances is included in the Finished Garment Testing procedure. Any issues related to fabric should be immediately addressed with the fabric mill and resolved promptly to avoid delay in shipment. Also alert your local area Materials Research and Quality personnel. Approval to use out of tolerance fabric must come from Corporate MR and QA.

Cutting and Spreading Inspections

IV) Cutting and Spreading Inspections The cutting department is a major profit center which can often be overlooked. It has a

tremendous influence on the cost and quality of the finished product. In general, about 45% to 60% of a garment?s cost is fabric, but about 90% of a cutting room?s cost is in fabric. Controlling fabric loss is extremely important.

A Cutting Department?s Objective should include:

o Consistently provide sewing with accurate cut parts for each operation

? As specified and within tolerance

o Control cost of fabric through material utilization, less rework, loss and scrap o Maintain reasonable direct labor costs

A formal approval ?release process? should be in place that signifies that all appropriate components, directions and documents are ready for ?release? to the cutting department. Included in the release process would be approvals for, but not limited to:

o Marker accuracy against pattern, spec, direction and related cutting notations o Clear instructions for fabric face/bottom, direction, nap, type of spread/cut o Fabric roll, style, shade integrity

o Pattern considerations for fabric shrinkage o Separation of rolls for shade control

Spreading and Cutting Room Quality Control personnel should verify that the formal approval release process has occurred at they begin inspections of a lot.

Monitoring Spreading and Cutting

A key to efficient monitoring is good communication between the Quality and cutting room teams. Quick response and follow-up help prevent bigger issues and reduce costs. Typically, one or two dedicated inspectors are capable of monitoring spreading and cutting

Production pay incentives are common for most positions, but can be detrimental if not tied to quality performance incentives also. A strong in-process monitoring of spreading and cutting should trend performance results of individuals. These results should initiate training and corrective action as needed.

Random Sampling

Effective inspection requires random examination of cutting operations. An Inspector should not avoid patterns and routines that reduce the random aspect of the inspection. The order of personnel and operations should be changed frequently. Make every effort to get a fair representation of the cutting production by making random checks.

Cutting and Spreading Inspections

Spreading

Important Points For Knits

o Establish and follow a formal procedure to relax knits as long as necessary, prior to

spreading, after spreading and after cutting as warranted by fabric characteristics. o Spreading machine should be monitored for a very relaxed speed and lack of tension. o Spreading machines without de-tensioning capability (positive feed), is not

recommended for knits.

o Ply heights of knits must be controlled and be appropriate to the actual cutting method. o Place pattern correctly on quarter turned fabric so the fold will fall on the side of a

garment.

Spreading and Cutting QC Inspector Procedures

Inspectors should monitor and record results for each Spreader a minimum of twice per day. A formal marker approval process should be in place and all fabric and documents also approved prior to release. Any relaxation needs should be verified. The primary characteristics to monitor in spreading would include:

o Edge and end alignment (CTC- critical to cost) o Tension of spread (CTQ- critical to quality) o Table marks

o Splices and overlaps

o Accuracy of marker including condition o Marker placement o Pattern check o Cuttable width

o Direction and type of spread o Ply counts

o Straight edge / leaning o Bowing of fabric

o Shading and general quality

o No staples or pins should be used

Performance levels should be tracked and additional training provided as needed.

To determine a spreaders defect rate divide the number of defects found by the ply height.

Any major inaccuracies would be considered defects and fail the inspection. Failures are rejected back to the supervisor who reviews with the Spreader(s). The spread should be corrected and a re-audit done by QC after re-inspection. The Spreader is then audited three more consecutive times, until no mistakes are found. At that point, he would go back to a normal rotation.

Down Product Compliance Overview

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